Lot of rain over night but so far I have been blessed with good weather. No breakfast provided in this hostel but for six pounds a night I maybe could not expect that. The wee cafe across the square didn’t serve til 8 so it was a little later before I was on the go. An interested crowd had gathered. The bike was parked outside the hotel as I was assured it would be safe. It was still there in the morning.
Interesting Christmas tree. Zoom in for better view. Every small town right up to large citys seem to be built around a main square with a church on one side. The church clock here chimed every hour.
So with crowd watching I set off and move 6 inches before ending up on the ground. Much hilarity when it was realized I hadn’t taken the disc lock off. Many hands were available to get the bike up again. It’s not easy by myself but I can do it. No damage so off I go. Only about half a mile as the bridge is not there. Quick check to see if I am allowed over the foot bridge and off again. About three miles. There’s been a landslide and it will be about an hour or so before it’s clear. Considering that Peruvian drivers drive like maniacs on the horn all the time they accept blockages very readily. They stand about talking until the all clear then jump into their cars, busses, lorries and are off. In the middle are mototaxis and people on motorcycles. It all cleared but you can see why there are so many landslides.
The heavy machinery arriving.
On to Kuelap. The sign said 37 km but it felt more like 37mls. I had stopped at a small cafe at the bottom of the road where I asked for a coffee and biscuits. I saw the woman run across to the grocery and come back with the biscuits. Anyway this road was classified as afirmado. I had only been on afsalto up to now. This road turned out to be what we would consider a poorly maintained forest track. Maybe fine on a small 250 cc trail bike. I’m on an 800 cc big brute of a thing.
The road snakes up one side of the valley and climbs up to the fortress site.
I can assure you that its a lot steeper than it looks.
Kuelap is a site of the ancient chapoyas people reckoned to be occupied from the 6th to 16th century. I’m not sure who the expected to attack them. It’s a huge site built on the top of a hill in the middle of nowhere.
The entrance.
A restored house
All the houses were built so that only one person could pass at a time.
The view is the same on all sides.
The inevitable high priests house where sacrifices were made. I was unable to get an english speaking guide so had to make do reading the information boards.
Well it was time to head back down the road. It wasn’t any different going down though I did manage it a bit quicker.
There is fresh air if you go straight on. No barrier and no way of knowing if a bus or 4×4 is coming.
On to Chachapoyas. I had considered taking extra fuel with me but was assured there were plenty filling stations. It probably wouldn’t have been a good idea as the temperature is in the high 20s. I was watching carefully how many kms I had left but made it with some to spare. I had taken my gloves off and laid them on the back of the bike. I was away from the filling station before I realized I had not put them on. I went back but the young lad denied seeing them.
I still struggle to figure out the one way system. Again folk are pointing to me and saying you are going the wrong way. Anyway I found a hostel near the main square with a garage. Very nice too but dearer. £16 but that did include breakfast.
I feel that I didn’t do chachapoyas justice. It was a very nice place with lots more to do. However my time is limited so tomorrow I move on.














